Last night, Montevideo kicked off its 40-day Carnaval with the inaugural parade.

I hadn’t planned to be in town for Carnaval; I hadn't even realized that Uruguay had one. But I had noticed grandstands and barricades being set up on Avenida 18 de Julio when I returned from Colonia and asked my host about it. He told me about the parade on Thursday and that I could buy tickets for seats at any Abitab if I were so inclined. During the course of the week I watched as chairs were set up on both sides of the street; security kept watch over them.

Wednesday night, as I was walking to dinner I passed an Abitab and stopped in to ask if they had tickets available. They did, but they only accepted cash. The tickets were 400 pesos. I had 370. I asked what time they opened in the morning.

This morning I returned at 09:00 and purchased a ticket. I wasn’t sure where the seats were, but I knew they were on the south side of the street. I live two blocks south of 18 de Julio and wanted to make life easier on myself.

The parade was scheduled to start at 20:00 and I made my way over around 19:30. I had to ask a few attendants before I found my section. Walking to the front row, I asked an older woman whether the seat beside her was taken. She said it was not and invited me to sit. On the other side of me was a family of three: a mother, father, and their daughter.

The night before on walking back home I heard the beat of drums and followed them until I found large groups of drummers practicing a few blocks away. Dancers practiced their choreography in time to the rhythm. I watched one group practice until they were done and then followed the sound of drums until I found another, marching with them as they made their way west down the street. It served as an appetizer before the main event.

We heard our first drums around 20:30 and slowly the parade made it into view. I sat and watched as drummers, dancers, puppeteers, flag bearers, clowns, and bands proceeded before us. Some came to the barricade to encourage us to cheer or clap in time with the music. It was a blast.

I left my seat near midnight, walking to the Plaza Independencia to take stock of what remained. A number of people stood with banners lined up to begin their procession. Music blasted from the backs of trucks. The number of dancers and drummers were few.

On the last night of carnaval, Las Llamadas is held. A parade of drummers, it sounds like an amazing end to the festivities. Unfortunately, I won’t be able to attend. But I’m thinking of returning to Montevideo in the next year or two, and I’m thinking I’ll be planning it to coincide with the parade.

At home I edited photos. From my open windows I could hear the parade continue. Finally, at 01:00 the streets quieted. The parade was over. And so it begins. 🇺🇾