From the Kostel sv. Mikuláše I continued up the hill to Prague Castle. Crowds lined the square. I had managed to arrive just in time to catch the changing of the guard.

I found a spot in the square to watch a group of guards approach and then squeezed myself against the fence surrounding the palace for a view as they presented arms. I could hear drumming and trumpets but I couldn’t see them until I walked around the courtyard to the other side and then around. Then I could see the drummers and trumpeters standing in alcoves of the building.

Inside the palace complex I purchased a ticket and began to make my way around the buildings and churches. The line to enter St. Vitus Cathedral was long and so I decided to leave it for last. Walking around the building, I found no line for the south tower of the cathedral. I paid my entrance fee and proceded to climb the 287 steps to the top.

From the top, my gaze swept the city and the Vltava and the neighborhoods beyond. Tufts of green trees spread amongst orange roofs. Towers and cupolas dotted the landscape, but none reached as high as my vantage point and my view was unhindered.

Back on the ground, the line for the cathedral had not abated and so I made my to St. George's Basilica, facing the courtyard just behind the cathedral. Having been founded by Prince Vraislav I in 920 as the second church at Prague Castle, it’s since been enlarged and reconstructed. Inside, I found much to admire in what frescos that remained.

Outside, I backtracked to the cathedral. A light rain had begun to fall and the line had all but disappeared. I shuffled inside to behold the light-filled interior.

After circumambulating the space I found myself back at the entrance. Crowds had gathered to take photos of the various stained glass windows and the length of the nave towards the chancel, their forms drawfed by the scale of the building.

Outside, clouds continued to shroud the sky. The rain had stopped, but the light was grey. I walked the length of the castle grounds towards the far end, past an alley lined with old homes and stores and out through the gate.

Outside, I wandered back towards the city, cutting through Waldstein Garden on my way to the river. It proved a tranquil respite from the city and from the crowds touring the castle, though I was not alone in enjoying its quiet charms.

I walked south along the Vltava. Crossing at the Most Legii, I descended at its midpoint to explore Střelecký ostrov, an island in the middle of the river.

An area of food stalls and a stage greeted me just down from the stairs. A food and wine festival was underway and a band played rock music as a small crowd danced before them.

I walked to the tip of the island to admire the view. Nutria lined the banks and people reached out to feed and touch them. Signs warned against the behavior, but they were admittedly cute and seemingly harmless. Paddleboats plied the water, heading to and fro. An attendant in a motorboat would whistle at them if they came too close to heading out of bounds. Nearby, a bar barge blasted music. Barkeeps called out to passing boats, offering drinks.

Leaving the island I walked back towards my Air BnB to wash up. I had dinner reservations at Field and wanted to pick up a few grocery items to tie me over for the week.

On Sunday night, Prague took on a different character. The streets outside the square were quiet and the end of the weekend was acutely felt. Dinner was a lovely multi-course affair and, slightly tipsy from wine, I decided to take a stroll before heading back home and to bed.

My wanderings led me back to the square and I took a few parting photos before heading back, knowing I’d be returning again and again to the square throughout my stay. 🇨🇿