I arrive in Ljubljana earlier than I expected. I had moved my airport shuttle booking back just in case immigration would take some time, forgetting that I was arriving in the EU through Zurich. My bags came quickly and I walked out to find where the shuttle might be. With almost an hour to kill I walk back into the airport to ask if I can take an earlier shuttle. The man behind the counter looks up my reservations and picks up his radio. He tells me to step outside. A van is waiting.

It’s a beautiful sunny day. There’s not a cloud in the sky as we leave the airport and head towards town. Snow-capped mountains seem to loom on the horizon wherever we turn.

The driver drops me just outside the Old City, and points me in the wrong direction to my apartment. I check the map, find my bearings, and turn around.

The city is swarming with people, many here for the day to visit the Christmas markets. Kiosks are set up all along Prešernov trg, one of the main squares at the heart of the city. Christmas lights are set up, a large tree stands before the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation.

I head to my apartment and quickly unload my bags so that I can head back out into the streets before it gets dark.

I walk through the streets and along the river, familiarizing myself with the Old City. It’s a relatively small and compact part of town; one I’ll come to know well. And though small, I find the city center charming, its many bridges and embrace of dragons contributing greatly to its character.

Boats ply the river, a thirty-minute ride costing 10 Euros, 5 for children. I walk to one end of the Old City and then cross the river to walk back. A nativity scene made of straw is set up in a makeshift wooden structure. A cradle awaits the newborn.

The sun is setting and the day grows colder and more grey. The streets seem to warm up with people as they head to the sidewalk bars and restaurants. I’m surprised at how hearty people are, braving the cold to eat and drink al fresco. Heat lamps and fur blankets abound, but they don’t seem quite enough to ward off all of the cold.

As I explore some of the raods just off of the main tourist strip, I see some signs of the the tension tourism brings to Europe, but am heartened at the embrace of refugees in the same breath.

The castle on the hill ever-present. Bathed in the light of the setting sun. it glows as if aflame above the city in shadow. I wander the squares and streets as if determined to familiarize myself with them all on my first afternoon in the city.

With the last light of the sun I looped back around to the river, following it to Prešernov trg. All roads seem always to lead back to this square.

The largest tree stood in Prešernov trg, with lights like stars hanging over it and the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation.

I crossed the Tromostovje, the triple bridge, and walked towards the central market, crossing back over the river on the Mesarski most, laden with “love padlocks.” Finally, I crossed back to the castle side on the Zmajski most with its four large dragons guarding the entrances. I’ll fail a trivia question later during my stay. When asked how many dragons there are, I’ll say four, but there are 20. Sixteen smaller dragons sit at the base in pairs at the base of each parapet lamp.

I’ll also read that according to local legend, the dragons will wave their tails when a virgin passes.

I’m finally ready to call it a night and head one last time to Prešernov trg. Music is blasting from some of the restaurants and bars and small groups dance on the sidewalk while others eat and drink the night away. I’ll learn later that on the weekends buses bring people from Croatia, Vienna, and the surrounding areas to visit the Christmas market here, spiking the population numbers.

The decorations come alive at night and I’m surprised to look up to see single-cell organisms lit up amongst the planets and stars. Later, I’ll ask a guide and she’ll laugh. She says that the theme is not only space but also science and the human organism, hence the allusions to cells. She tells me that in past years she’d spot Einsteins’ equation E=MC^2 in lights along the streets. It’s been the theme for years. 🇸🇮