An extra day in Český Krumlov.

I had fallen in love with Český Krumlov and couldn’t bear to leave. The Vltava was also calling and I longed to spend some time canoeing on the river. Throughout the day I had watched groups floating in rafts down the river, and I wanted to share in the experience. And so I extended my stay at the hotel and booked a canoe the next morning. I went to sleep with the windows open, excited to be able to spend another day in one of my favorite European towns. The hour chimed throughout the square.

•

In the morning, I walked to Městský Park to pick up my canoe. After some brief safety instructions, including how best to navigate the rapids, I was given a paddle and sent on my way. The day was overcast, the river slow, and so I began to drift my way through the town, admiring the architecture from the river.

Passing the first rapid, I looked up at the spire of Church of St. Vitus looming over me and a man fishing from the embankments. Soon, I had come around the bend in the river that surrounds the historic center and came back around with the castle on my starboard side.

As I rounded the bend and continued down the river, I left the town behind. The landscpe became more secluded and wooded. Now and again, I’d come across a campground where groups of people would be coming into and out of the river. Once in a while, I’d pass a restaurant setting up to serve boaters throughout the day.

At a bend in the road stopped to take a break. A bench was set up seemingly in the middle of nowhere, and I took a moment to sit in the sun and admire the landscape around me before climbing back into my canoe to paddle on.

Nearing the end of my trip, I saw an umbrella in the middle of the river. As I approached I saw a sign advertising drinks. It was a floating bar.

Yuri grabbed my canoe and tied it to their boat. I ordered an Aperol spritz and Michela made my drink. They were in school, he studying law; she to be a dental hygenist. They were from nearby and I asked them about the area and the river. They told me that the river was low; usually the water level was two to three times as high as it was. They were wading in the water and I asked what it was like serving drinks when the water level was higher. More difficult.

After I had finished my drink and handed the cup back to them, Yuri untied my boat. Michela was quick to laugh and as I floated backwards away from them I could hear her laughter ring out over the river.

I paddled my way further. The landscape opened up and I could see fields and the the road hugging the river. I paddled down another set of rapids right before a brewhouse that was to be the end of my trip. I texted the outfit that rented me my canoe and they said they’d pick me up soon. It had taken about three hours to make my way down the river.

I was dropped off where I had been picked up. From there I walked back to the historic center to visit the Church of St. Vitus, first walking up the hill to the church and then ducking inside for a quick look. I had booked a tour of the castle for the early afternoon and I wanted to make sure I didn’t miss my entry slot.

Walking to the castle I checked the time. I had some to spare and decided to climb the spire to get another view of the town. I was not disappointed. The day had cleared and I was rewarded with clear views of the town and the river below.

Downstairs I took a quick tour of the museum before heading back into the courtyard. My tour would be starting soon and so I found a spot to sit and wait for my group to be called.

I was late to book the tour and when I checked the website, the only option was to do the tour in Czech. I gamely ambled along with the rest of the group, trying to look attentive as the guide pointed out the sights and joked with the crowd. Thankfully, he didn’t ask me my opinion of anything. Photos were not allowed, but I was happy to have been able to see inside the buildings I had spent the past two days walking around.

After the tour I walked around the town. It was late afternoon and I wanted to spend as much time as I could wandering the streets and soaking in the atmosphere, and I was looking forward to getting a drink at Apotheka cafe bar.

That night I had moved to a room in the back. I opened the window to take in the night air and listen to the clock chime. The streets had emptied and as I looked down from my window I watched as the propitor of the store across the street stood alone in front of his shop to smoke a cigarette and then head back inside. 🇨🇿