Australia part two
The Sydney coastal walk from Bondi Beach to Coogee.
When I think of Sydney a few things pop into mind: the Sydney Opera House, a flat white, and Bondi Beach.
I hadn’t heard of the Sydney coastal walk from Bondi south to Coogee until a friend and an Uber driver had mentioned it to me, and decided to spend my second day in the city doing the 6km or so hike.
I took a bus to Bondi Beach, alighting a stop before I had intended to. I had caught a glimpse of the beach itself and was too excited to have a look. And so I ended up at the southwestern corner and had to first walk north. I had decided to first eat lunch at the Promenade Bondi Beach before embarking on my journey.
Along the promenade I was happy to see that the wall running alongside the boardwalk was devoted to street art, with murals memorializing the 88 Australians who died in the 2012 Kuta Beach Bali bombings, depicting the local culture, and celebrating art itself.
Along the boardwalk I stop by a sign in the shape of a surfboard documenting the surfer’s code. I had never seen it written explicitly before, and never knew what the rules were until now.
I take lunch at Promenade Bondi Beach. They only have outdoor tables, which suits me just fine. I order Sydney rock oysters and a pizza. A friend had told me I need to try the oysters, promising a creamy, sweet oyster unlike any I’ve had. She’s right; they’re delicious, as is the pizza.
After lunch I take a walk along the beach, doffing my shoes and socks to dip my toes in the surf. The water is colder than I had expected, and I feel better about not having packed my swimwear. Children play near the end of the beach and a lifeguard drives out to warn their parents. There’s a strong undertow and they shouldn’t be playing in the waves.
At the end of the beach I step onto the path that marks the beginning of my Sydney coastal walk. It curves up around the hill, with views overlooking the beach and the Bondi Icebergs Swimming Club. Waves crash upon the rocks surrounding the pools, the sea pours over the edge into them. On the upper decks people sun themselves, oblivious to the drama below.
I keep walking to Bronte and on to Squid Bay. Small tidal pools dot the landscape, and the cilffs show signs of erosion. I wonder when the water comes up so high, when the effects had taken place.
Continuing on I stop at Mackenzie’s Point lookout to stare out at the sea. At Tamarama Point a woman stands at the edge of the cliffs. A man takes photos or video of her with a phone, helping her create content.
I walk around Tamarama Beach to Bronte beach and the baths there.. The path runs alongside a few homes, with windows looking out over the beaches, cliffs, and oceans. I can’t imagine how much these houses and apartments cost. In one, a dog stands still, right up against the window. I think he’s looking at me until I get closer and realize it’s a stuffed animal.
Just past Bronte Beach there’s a beautiful set of cliffs and I stop to watch the ocean crash upon the rocks and recede, wispy foam clinging as long as it can before falling back into the sea from whence it came.
At the Calga Reserve at Lookout Point in the eastern suburb of Bronte I stop before a sculpture set on a patch of grass. 'Twice Twisted Bands' was created by Keizo Ushio in 2012. Carved out of a single block of granite, the Japanese title (Oushi Zokei) is an anagram of the artist’s name, which can be interpreted in a number of ways, lending inspiration to the form.
The walk edges along the coast, atop the cliffs as it winds past Waverley cemetery. I follow the path to a viewpoint and stop to look back a to see how far I’ve come.
A narrow channel of water leads to Clovelly Beach, and people swim along it as if in a pool. Two years ago I had met a woman from Sydney on a wine tour leaving from Santiago, Chile. She had come to Santiago for the weekend to see Christina Aguilera in concert. I had seen she was performing, and had debated seeing her. I checked and it was just the impetus I needed to buy tickets. It was amazing seeing her life.
When I asked my concert friend where I should base myself she said Clovelly. It’s where she lives and she loves it. I reached out to see if she’d like to meet up for a coffee but didn’t get the opportunity to reconnect. She’d since had a baby, and I imagine her life has changed in innumerable ways.
At Gordon’s Bay, a path seemed to lead along the rocks by the water. I deviated in hopes of being able to skirt the ocean and ran into two women walking back towards. There was no way forward, they told me, and we climbed a small cliff back to the main path.
At Dolphin point, I leave the path to cut across the park. A bronze scuplture of three linked figures bowing in sorrow and rememberance has been installed at the end of a concrete path as a memorial to those killed in the Bali bombing. Designed by Sasha Reid, Reclaiming Spirit is a “a tribute to the Australian spirit of courage and endurance. The linked figures in this sculpture signify family, friends and community. Bowed in sorrow and remembrance, they comfort, support and protect each other. The figures also symbolise growth, hope and our strenght in unity.”
When I reach the Coogee Surf Life Saving Club I realize I’m coming towards the end. Seeing the pool I wish I had brought a swimming suit. Walking in the sun has proven to be hot work and I’d love nothing more than to jump into an ocean-fed pool.
At Coogee I follow a wooden boardwalk along the grass, ending up on the street. I’ve reached the end of the coastal walk. I think about calling a cab and then check the map for bus stops. There’s one not far away, though it requires a climb up a hill to get to the main road.
I cut through a private drive and emerge into a cul de sac. The view of the ocean is amazing, the expanse almost impossible to imagine. Were I to sail towards the horizon, but for a spot of New Zealand, the next stop would just about be Santiago, Chile. 🇦🇺
18 February 2025
