On the trail of mountain gorillas and golden monkeys in Rwanda & Uganda.

In 2022 I began planning a safari with my cousins. Two of their daughters were graduating from college and one had asked for safari for her graduation present.

We talked about a combination of various countries and activities, one of which was gorilla trekking. Ultimately, we decided on a more traditional safari in Kenya and Tanzania, but the idea of gorilla trekking stuck with me.

I ended up spending three weeks in Rwanda in June of 2023. I’d long been curious about the country having heard and read so much about it while growing up. I was also interested in traveling to Volcanoes National Park for the opportunity to visit with a family of mountain gorillas.

The experience of being in such close proximity to a species that exists in such close proximity to ourselves was incredible. So much so that I resolved to visit the gorillas again, this time in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda. Each encounter was unique; the forests themselves proved to offer very different experiences and I was happy to have been able not only to compare the two, but also to be able to double the amount of time I spent with these awesome families of individuals.

To read about my encounters, click on the chapters below.

1.
The road to Musanze, Rwanda.

At 10:00 Hussein is already parked in the small lot of the complex. Salam alaykum, I say. Alaykum salam, he returns.

2.
The mountain gorillas of Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda.

Hussein arrives promptly at 06:30. He’s probably been ready for a while, but reception waits to tell me he’s here.

3.
The golden monkeys of Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda.

It’s another early morning as Hussein meets me once again at 06:30.

4.
Rwanda to Lake Mutanda, Uganda.

From Musanze, it’s only half an hour to the border at Cyanika, but I’m once again to make my way from Kigali making it a five hour trip to my lodge overlooking Lake Mutanda.

5.
The mountain gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda.

Whoever named Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is a genius; it sounds like something out of The Princess Bride. I want to visit for the name alone; the opportunity to see mountain gorillas is a bonus.

6.
A day on Lake Mutanda, Uganda.

The Chameleon Hill Forest Lodge sits above the lake, and I spend each morning sitting on the terrace gazing out over its surface. WIthin the lake there are 17 islands, 13 of which are semi-inhabited. Two hundred species of birds call this area home, and I can hear their songs throughout the day.