Sailing in the wake of polar explorers to the Ross Sea, Antarctica.
It’s come, my return to Antarctica.
A year ago I sailed to the peninsula on a voyage that reached the Antarctic Circle. Today, I’m headed to the Ross Sea, sailing in the wake of polar explorers Robert Falcon Scott, Ernest Shackleton, and Roald Amundsen. Of the three, I hope our voyage aligns most closely with that of the latter.
It’s a day’s sail to our first scheduled destination, Enderby Island. From there, it’s three days to the Ross Sea where we hope to alight at Cape Adare before continuing south to Ross Island. Nothing is assured. The weather is unpredictable, the storms constant. We’ll have to navigate around them.
I had thought that this trip would be smoother than the last; our briefing will disavow me of this notion. The Drake Passage gets all the glory because sailors headed west could not avoid those waters until the Panama Canal was completed. There was no reason for anyone to sail so far south in this part of the world where the seas are, on average, worse, as we’ll learn.
Click any of the images or titles to read on.
26 January 2025 –15 February 2025
1.
Dunedin, embarkation, and our first night at sea.
I ask for a late checkout. I’m granted until 1100, after which it will be 35$NZ to stay until noon. I don’t ask how much it will be if I stay later.
2.
Our first full day at sea.
It’s our first full day at sea. I’ve felt worse but I’ve also felt better. Last night I took a pill and decide to wait until lunch to take another. We’ll see how it goes.
3.
A landing on Enderby Island.
I wake to the sounds of zodiacs being lowered into the water; gears wind, ropes slap the sides of the ship. It’s grey and overcast, the glass door wet from the passage if not from the rain.
4.
Three days at sea.
By morning we’ve reached 54°35.48'S. We’re south of Cambpell Island and almost in line with Macquarie Island (though far to the east of it).
5.
Land ho! The continent, Possession Island, and a cruise through the sea ice.
We’ve reached 70°24.32' S and are continuing south. The sunrise at our present position is at 03:14; the sunset will be at 23:57. Soon, the sun will cease to set.
6.
Sailing along the Ross Ice Shelf.
At 08:41 we’re at 74°20.22' headed south at 13.6 knots. Terra Nova Bay sits to the starboard side, but too far to see. Later, I’ll learn that we’ve been sailing in the open sea to avoid ice and to increase our speed as we head towards Ross Island.
7.
Cape Evans, Scott’s hut, and emperor penguins on the fast ice.
We’re at 74°20.22' headed south at 13.6 knots. Terra Nova Bay sits to the starboard side, too far to see. Later, I’ll learn we’ve been sailing in the open sea to avoid ice and to increase our speed as we head towards Ross Island.
8.
Cape Royds, Shackleton’s Nimrod Hut, and a dance competition.
We wake up at 77°33.62' S, 166°11.37' E just off the coast of Cape Royds. Ernst Shackleton’s hut sits on the Cape, erected during his Nimrod expedition to be the first men to the South Pole.
9.
A walk on the fast ice in McMurdo Sound and a visit to the Cape Bird penguin rookeries.
It’s not yet 0700 when I wake up to an announcement from the Captain. There are orca off the port side. I’m not ready to get out of bed—let alone be conscious—but I’m not going to miss this.
10.
A zodiac cruise in Terra Nova Bay.
I wake up in the middle of the night, tossing and turning. It’s not me; it’s the ship. We’ve hit large swells in the open sea.
11.
A return to Possession Island and a champagne toast.
When I wake up in the morning we’re at 73°15.25' S, 170°26.31' E near Coulman Island. We’re sailing towards Cape Halette and Cape Adare to the north. The skies are blue but clouds have begun to spread. By 10:00 it’ll be overcast.
12.
A day at sea and a zodiac cruise around the Balleny Islands.
I wake up to an announcement from the Captain. It’ll be a day at sea as we head to Balleny Islands.
13.
Another day at sea; encounters with royal & king penguins on Macquarie Island.
The past days blur together and I’m becoming exhausted. The end of the cruise feels nigh, and while we’ve spent two days at sea, its not been without activities.
14.
A day at sea, a zodiac cruise along the Snares Islands/Tini Heke.
I wake up to another day at sea. We’re sailing north towards Snares Islands in hopes of an activity there. The sun is setting and the days are getting warmer.
15.
The return to port, a morning in Dunedin, a layover in Christchurch, and beyond.
It’s our final day on board. Our boots and life jackets are to be left outside our doors by 0900 for collection. A mandatory meeting is scheduled to instruct us on the disembarkation process. A final briefing is scheduled for the afternoon. It’s the least-fun day of the trip.