Australia part six
Three days in Melbourne.
My flight to Melbourne departs at 09h57. Buses from the resort are scheduled throughout the day to match flight times and I’m on the first.
It’s a quick ride to the airport. There’s no traffic (there’s almost no traffic regardless) and we arrive with plenty of time to check in and relax at the terminal before the flight.
I’ve chosen a seat on the right side of the plane, assuming that I’ll be able to see Uluṟu as the view was on the left when we arrived. My supposition pays off as I see the rock as we lift off and then fly right by it on our route back south and east to Melbourne.
Approaching the coast it’s amazing to see the deep blue sea after being surrounded by so much semi-arid red earth. From the air, it looks like a beautiful day in Melbourne and the reality will prove to match the view. The city itself rises around the river, a few blocks of skyscrapers jutting up from the suburbs.
I take a taxi to the hotel and settle in. It’s centrally located and the floor-to-ceiling window offers views of the city. I’m excited to discover a gym and make it a point to hit the treadmill each day, recreating my excercise schedule from the cruise.
I step out for a snack and make a beeline to LeTAO to have another sundae after having discovered the treat in Sydney. This is the first location out of Japan and I’m happy to treat myself after missing ice cream in Yulara.
In the evening I watch as the light changes, and the buildings light up for the night.
The next day I explore the streets around the hotel. I look for a coffee shop and am directed to Patricia Coffee Brewers. I walk down Little Bourke Street, and make note of a bunch of Asian restaurants I’d like to sample if I get the chance, including one that makes Shanghai pan-fried dumplings.
At Patricia there’s a line out the door and people are sipping cups in the alley. I order and am told that the coffee will be brought to me. I find a spot at a window ledge to sip my first flat white in Melbourne.
In the evening I take a cab to Amaru for dinner. It’s my one fancy night out in the city. I’m seated at the bar with a view of the kitchen. I’m asked if I would like the wine pairing. I say yes and then go along for the ride.
It’s late by the time I return to the hotel. I wash up and tumble into the bed, the lights of the city my nightlight.
The next morning I head to Bakemono Bakers for an almond croissant with yuzu and a flat white. My visit to Melbourne is turning into a food tour of the city.
For lunch I head to Queen Victoria Market. It’s a lively place and I find myself in the fish section early on. There’s an oyster stand with oysters from around the country and I order a half dozen to try them all. I stand at a table, elbow to elbow with other diners doing the same.
For lunch I stop by the Mussel Pot, a food cart at the northern end of the market. I order the steamed chili coconut cream and take it to a picnic bench to enjoy. It’s delicious and I sop up the soup with the hunks of bread that have come with it.
From the market I head towards the Yarra River and cross it, walking back in the direction of the hotel along its banks. It’s a warm late summer day. I have a vague inclination to visit the National Gallery of Victoria and turn towards it as I near the musuem.
There’s a Yayoi Kusama retrospective hanging in the galleries and I buy a timed ticket onilne, none too soon as it sells out shortly after I make my purchase.
It’s great seeing her work here. The crowds are smaller than one would find in New York and there’s not a terribly long wait to get into the infinity rooms spread throughout the exhibition.
In the final room, we’re given flowers and encouraged to place them in the final room of the exhibition, already covered in red blooms.
After visiting the exhibition I walk the permanent collection, happy to find a few rooms devoted to their fashion collection.
Just next to it, a few rooms are devoted to the work of the Guerrila Girls, a group of feminist artists and activists active between 1985 and 2016. Calling themselves the ‘conscience of the art world,’ their work ‘exposes sexism and racism in politics, teh art world, and popular culture.’
Leaving the galleries I spot two final pieces of fashion set against pink neon. Nearby Jorge Méndez Blake’s Complete Poems seems to reflect what I’ev just seen, the neon appearing pink against the plain walls bathed in natural light.
I walk back across the river headed towards the hotel. Looking at the map I decide to continue north to Hareruya Pantry to sample their green tea and black sesame ice cream (one of my favorite combinations) before heading back home.
For dinner I pick up dumplings from Shanghai Street to take home. It’s too much food but I can’t help myself. The dumplings look too good and I am almost always searching for the dumpling high that I got eating at Yang’s Fry Dumplings all those years ago in Shanghai. 🇦🇺
27 – 28 February 2025
