Belgium
Chapter three

Two days in Ghent.

It’s an early morning. I’m taking a morning train from Bruges to Ghent so I can explore the city before settling down for the afternoon.

At this early hour there are few people on the street. The only people I pass while walking the empty streets of the town are those out walking their dogs. When I reach the station, the plaza is dotted with others heading towards the train.

Arriving in Ghent, I purchase a ticket for the tram ride it through the city. It’s overcast and threatening rain, making for an even light. On first blush, Ghent is a grittier city than Bruges. It feels more lived in and a place in which I could spend some time.

Nikki greets me at the hotel. It’s too early to check in and she directs me to the second floor where I can store my bags. I thank her and head upstairs. It takes me a minute to understand how the lockers work, to pay and to enter a code. As I’m leaving another guest is struggling with the same and I help him with my newly-acquired knowledge.

It’s an overcast day, a change from the brilliant days I’ve had in Bruges. I walk to Saint Bavo's Cathedral, across from the Belfry. I step inside to admire the organ, the altar.

Upstairs, a man motions excitedly for me to follow him. The Ghent Alarpiece, or Adoration of the Mystic Lamb is about to be revealed. A 15th-century polyptych altarpiece painted by brothers Hubert and Jan van Eyck, the panels are closed every night to be reopened in the morning. One of the panels has already been revealed and I wait to watch the second slowly open and reveal the paintings within.

Afterwards, the caretaker tells me to make sure I don’t miss the Rubens hanging near where I entered. I take the opportunity to retrace my steps and to explore the rest of the church in a more leisurely fashion.

Outside the skies have cleared. I walk across the plaza before the church, past a performing arts center and Monument Jan Frans Willems en route to the Belfry of Ghent.

At the Belfort van Gent I pay my entrance fee and proceed to walk to the top of tower, not realizing that the intent is to take the elevator up and to walk down. At one point I pass someone heading down and have to squeeze to make run. They try to explain to me what I’ve done wrong but I don’t understand them.

The views from the top are spectacular, back to the church and out over the city.

Coming down the right way I stop to take in the exhibits on various floors, pausing by a dragon and also to take a photo of the main landing. The tiled floors and the wooden ceiling supports make for a handsome room, now empty.

Continuing on towards the river I duck into Saint Nicholas' Church, one of the oldest landmarks in Ghent. Begun in the 13th century, construction continued through the century. Before the Belfry of Ghent was built, the towers carried the town bells.

From the church I walk towards the river Leie. The banks are lively with pedestrians and the vestiages of a festival, now ended, the stages in various stages of being struck.

Boats ply the water full of tourists pointing cameras and cell phones at the buildings that line the canal.

I walk to the Gravensteen. a medieval castle castle dating from 1180 and the residence of the Counts of Flanders until 1353. Over the course of its history it has served as a court, prison, mint, and cotton factory. A restoration of the castle occurred from 1893–1903 and it now serves as a museum.

There’s a line to buy tickets and I struggle with slow internet in an attempt to buy a ticket online and bypass the line. As it turns out, the line moves faster than my internet and I buy a timed-entry ticket that will allow me inside in fifteen minutes.

I step out into the square in front of the castle the wait, sitting on the base of a statue with views to the main street. A light rain begins to fall and I don my rain jacket to wait out the shower.

When my allotted time arrives I scan my ticket and enter the courtyard of the castle. A handset is given to me which houses a jaunty audioguide presented tongue-in-cheek by the narrator. I follow along for a while until it begins to stretch my patience and I head up onto the ramparts for views of the river and more views of the city.

Back down on the main level I wander the grounds inside the castle walls, admiring the brickwork and enjoying the green lawns.

Outside the castle I take the long way around back towards the hotel to see a little more of the city. I have a vague notion as to where I am going, where I want to go. I let my curiosity guide me, turning down streets when something catches my eye.

Ultimately I arrive at Vrijdagmarkt square. A statue of Jacob Van Artevelde stands in the center. A Flemish statesman and political leader, who encouraged trade with the English against the wishes of the French, which proved fortuitous.

Heading back towards the hotel, I walk down Graffiti Street to catch examples of the local street art. There’s more to see, but without much free time I limit myself to this one stop.

From there to the hotel I pass the town hall and the Belfry. It’s still too early to check in and so I head off in search of a bakery where I purchase a croissant and then sit by the Muinkschelde overlooking the water to the public library.

Kayakers ply the waters and I take note of the website address stenciled onto their hulls. I won’t hve time to take a kayak myself, but will make a point of it on my next visit.

As I am checking into the hotel a video plays behind reception showcasing various hotels and rooms in their portfolio. A shot of the Ghent hotel appears with views over the city and the church spires and I ask if it’s possible to get a room with a view. The receptionist tells me they’ll see what they can do.

Fortunately, someone has checked out. It’ll take a minute to finish cleaning and I tell them I can wait. I take a seat in the lobby and not ten minutes passes before they approach with a room key in hand. I thank them and head up to the top floor.

The views from the room are spectacular, and I silently thank the receiptionist again after I’ve taken it all in.

In the evening I take another stroll along the river. I’m in search of food. There’s a Hawaiian poke bowl chain I’ve come to fancy and I take the long way around to find it.

The skies have cleared and the sun shines golden on the buidings by the canal. It feels like a city transformed by the light and I enjoy repeating my morning stroll to take in the altered sights.

I retrace my earlier steps back to the hotel, passing once again the city hall and a fascinating structure beside it. The City Pavilion was designed by Robbrecht & Daem and Marie-José Van Hee and hosts host concerts, dance performances and markets. Unfortunately, none were in evidence during my short stay.

I watch the sunset from my hotel room, an orange disc obscured by clouds before disappearing behind the rooftops. At night, the Belfry is lit like a beacon.

The next day dawns overcast once more.

Having explored the city the day before I don’t have much of a list to do and spend a casual morning chilling out in my room, watching over the city as it slowly reawakens.

I had made lunch reservations at Oak and walk a similar path as I did the night before to reach the restaurant. I arrive early and while away the minutes walking the street in front of the restaurant.

Inside, I am welcomed to a corner table, a booth to myself. The somm asks if I’ll be doing the pairing and I tell her no; I’m trying to be good. She offers a glass of champagne and tells me that they have an allotment of Dom Pérignon. I can’t resist. She brings it out and the meal begins.

Chef arcelo Ballardin is in residence and he himself brings a few of the dishes to table, finishing some before me. He asks about me and we chat about where he’s from. He tells me he’s heading to Rio in the fall and I tell him I’ll be there in September. Ufortunately, we’ll miss each other by weeks. He tells me it’s his favorite city in the world and tells me he’ll give me a list of his favorite places before I leave.

The meal is fantastic. It’s the best meal I’ve had this year and I’ll be surprised if another tops it. The food is beautiful, both in flavor, texture, and presentation.

After dinner I’m invited to take my things and am lead behind a door to another room for coffee and dessert. A group of four enters as I’m nearing the end and one of them asks me if I’m a critic. They had seen me writing and taking photos of the food. No, I tell them. I’m just an enthusiast. I was writing post cards.

They invite me to their table. They’re celebrating his girlfriend’s birthday and offer me a drink. They’re from Brussels but come here to eat semi-regularly. They tell me that this is a relatively new incarnation of the restaurant; it’s their first time in this space. The concept of the coffee room is new.

We while away the afternoon chatting about this and that until it’s time to go. They’re to drive back to Brussels; I’m to retire back to my hotel. The sun has freed itself from the clouds and shadows sweep across the streets. While my time in Ghent is brief, it’s been fulfilling and I’m very happy to have put it on my Belgian itinerary. 🇧🇪

31 July – 1 August 2024