First impressions: Cusco.
Cusco is a beautiful city. The capital of the Inca Empire from the 13th to the 16th century, it’s considered the historical center of Peru, and is the launching off point for excursions to various sights of historical importance, including Machu Picchu.
It’s a touristy and touristed city, but that doesn’t detract from the beauty of the mountains, the square, and the narrow streets, lined with restaurants, cafes, and shops.
But first, we eat.
After arriving in my hotel, set just off the Plaza de Armas, I immediately went to lunch. I had caught an earlier flight out of Lima and was surprised to find how hungry I was after having had breakfast at home. A friend had recommended Chicha and told me that if I didn’t eat there we’d no longer be friends. It was my first stop.
Being in the mountains I was on the lookout for trout. I was reminded of the trek I did with Ed in Turkey and how the promise of trout kept me going. When we found ourselves back in a village I think I ordered three. The food was delicious, both at Chicha and in the small village at the end of our trek.
I had no plans on arrival. I had decided to spend a week in Cusco before I had determined what there is to do here. A few weeks ago I finally booked a trip to Machu Picchu (after much prodding from my friend Angela), with an overnight in Aguas Calientes so that I could enter the temple with the first group of people.
Angela also made me promise to book a trip to the rainbow mountain of Vinicuna, but when I was talking to the tour agent they told me that it was closed due to disputes between villagers on how to monetize the attraction. They suggested Palccoyo, a lesser known alternative. I agreed.
An impromptu walking tour.
I had planned to take my first afternoon easy. Cusco rests at an elevation of 3,399 meters, and I remembered how long it took me to acclimatize in Quito. Curiosity got the better of me, however, and after lunch I found myself climbing the hills to visit the Mirador de Plaza San Cristobal and its adjoining church.
A number of people had gathered to watch the sun turn the roofs of the city golden, taking photos of each other and selfies as the city glowed in the later afternoon light. I paid the admission fee to the Temple de San Cristobal and climbed the small bell tower for its views over the city.
A young woman arranged herself by one of the bells, the city laid out behind her as her partner photographed her. Another young couple stood to the side waiting their turn. The first then offered to take the second’s photographs and the second couple sat below the bell, hands intertwined. They shared WhatsApp accounts with each other so that the photos could be sent.
I looked at the time and considered climbing further to visit the Incan fortress of Saqsaywaman, but it was getting late and the site was soon to close. I considered climbing to the white statue of Christ at Pukamuqu, but my lungs wanted a rest. I compromised and walked across the mountain to view the Acueducto de Sapantiana built between the XVII and XVIII centuries under Jesuit order.
Groups local tourists stood at the base, taking photos of each other, the water cascading at their feet.
Back in the center.
I walked through the San Blast area en route back to the center, where I found a group of children playing soccer on the cobbled streets. I watched them kick the ball around a bit before walking through the Plaza de Armas—anchored by a fountain topped with a statue of the Inca King Pachacutec—and exploring the adjacent streets.
The plaza de armas.
Back at the plaza, I admired the facades of the Igelsia de la Compania de Jesus and the Catedral del Cuzco before heading back to the hotel. There, I climbed to the roof of the hotel where I could see the towers of the church and the lights of the city, sprinkled across the mountains like stars. 🌌