An afternoon in Poblado, Medellín.
My entry into Columbia has been haphazard. I arrived last Saturday night on a direct flight from New York. After showering and unpacking and setting up the apartment I went to bed in the early hours. In the morning, I got up to go to the supermarket and pick up some groceries for the week to find that the main avenue had been closed to traffic and was full of people walking and biking. I had left my camera at home, thinking I’d be out for 30 min to run an errand and found myself following the flow of people south to the next neighborhood.
Walking back, I stumbled upon a small market set up on the sidewalk and bought a buttered arepa loaded with a crumbly cheese, served on a huge leaf from a stall that had a small line before it. Cradling the leaf in my hand, I stood on the sidewalk to eat my breakfast, hot and fresh from the grill. It was the best arepa I’ve ever had.
On Monday night, I flew to San Francisco, over 22 hours in transit through two layovers. The trip was exhausting, but worth it. I managed to find time to see Taylor, and it was great catching up after having parted in a Texas airport.
Friday night I flew back to Medellín. This time it was over 27 hours in transit. Arriving at the airport, Carlos told me he was stuck in traffic because of road closures due to flower parade plans. He told me he’d be an hour; I told him not to worry; I could wait.
He texted shortly thereafter and told me that his friend Tiberio would pick me up. He was closer and an associate. I soon received a text from Tiberio and found him after I had cleared customs.
Meliza had told me I should go to Santa Elena. She said that people partied the night before the close of the flower festival and that I should check it out. Tiberio texted Carlos to see where we should go, but he told us that the parties had ended and that rain had driven a lot of things indoors. He told us that there was a fair by the old airport in town if we wanted to check it out. I said why not.
The fair boasted food stalls and stalls selling bracelets and hats and other trinkets. A number of stages had been set up and competing bands and troubadours belted out songs from various corners of the park. People danced before stages, on pathways, and in the muddy lawns.
After about 30 minutes I was done. I was exhausted from sleeping in airports and from being in transit since 6pm the night before. I asked Tiberio to take me home, and I was happy to be back in familiar surroundings, and happy to stretch out in my bed.
The next day I went to visit the silletero farms of Envigado.
• • •
Last night I went for a walk before dinner, making my way to the Bailarina Isabel Cristina Restrepo Cárdenas Park, in memoriam of a dancer who was killed there. I had passed it on my first night in Medellín and wanted to return in order to photograph it.
It had rained every day since I had returned to Medellín, but yesterday it was clear, and the sun raked across the wooden walkways and platforms that made up the park. It’s a beautiful spot anchoring a neighborhood of lush streets and low homes. From various spots you can see the mountains across the valley, the clouds rolling in off their peaks.
From there I wandered back up the hills towards the Parque Lleras, an area of densely packed restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. Patrons were sparse, but it was early yet, and I criss-crossed the streets to take it all in.
The night before I had passed a sushi bar I had wanted to check out. They had yet to open, but took my name down and told me to come back at 7:30. To kill time, I ducked into a rooftop bar for the view, watching as the lights dimmed from above and came up from below. 🇨🇴