Lower Zambezi
Chapter four
A canoe trip down the Lower Zambezi and the trip home.
It’s my last day in the Lower Zambezi and I’ve arranged to take a canoe down the river.
I had hoped to be able to canoe one of the tributaries that flow into the river, but the water levels are too low. I had asked if it was possible to canoe and carry where the levels are low and was told no.
Leonard and Raphael straps canoes to a boat and we head downriver to our embarkation site where the canoes are placed in the river and we begin to paddle.
The sun is up, the waters are calm. We’re heading with the current and so it doesn’t take much to push ourselves forward. As we come around a bit of land jutting out into the water we pass a group of fishermen heading upstream, poling their canoes like mokoro.
Further from the shore towards the middle of the river we spot hippos. We keep a wide berth and Leonard assures me we’re safe. The hippo twitches its ear as it watches us pass.
On the shore we see an elephant and her baby feeding on the trees that grow up on the riverbank. We paddle closer and stare up at the elephants as they roam. It’s awesome being so close and seeing them from below and we follow them down the banks until they wander off away from the river.
Further downriver we pass other river lodges. They seem empty; the workers lounge on decks and wave to us as we float by.
It’s amazing being on the water, practically eye level with hippos. We don’t venture close to them and we don’t spot any large game by the banks other than the elephants we’ve seen, but it’s great to be able to engage in an activity on the river.
After an hour or so Leonard leads us to a bank where they set up for coffee and tea. He leads me up a small incline to get a broader view of the river and our canoes on the shore.
Back in our canoes we continue paddling until we reach the edge of the park. A beautiful house sits nearby, built by the owners of the Royal Zambezi Lodge (they’re also the ones who sealed the Royal airstrip). We’ve paddled about 16 kilometers and a boat meets us to bring us back to camp.
At lunch the chef has fashioned the bread into the shape of a crocodile. It’s a cute way to end my stay, but I’m loathe to be the first one to cut into the work of culinary art.
After I gather my things Leonard takes me out for a final drive before we meet the plane that will take me back to Lusaka. We pass a large herd of buffalo and continue on to see a lone elephant wandering close to the airstrip.
We arrive with plenty of time to spare. An elephant wanders at the edge of the airstrip, disappearing just before the plane arrives.
I’m the only one to board, though there are a number of people on board already. Raphael and Leonard wait for me to depart and I wave to them as we begin to taxi onto the runway.
The flight is short. We follow the river for a short period of time before heading north towards Lusaka. I’m sitting behind the pilot and split my time looking out of my window and looking out ahead at what the captain sees.
Alighting I chat with one of my fellow passengers as we walk to the terminal. It turns out he owns Chiawa Camp in the National Park and I make a note to stay in one on my next visit. I’ve already decided I want to come back. My plan is to visit Mana Pools in Zimbabwe and then cross the river to spend another night or two in Lower Zambezi National Park, staying as far east as I can.
When we reach the parking lot Grant offers me a ride. I thank him and tell him I have a driver coming already. he gives me his number and tells me to call if there’s anything he can do. I thank him and wish him well on his travels. He’s to head to the States in a few days to drop his son off at college.
When I’m back in Lusaka Vera asks me how it was. I tell her my trip was amazing. She tells me it’s been a while since she’s been. I tell her if I lived in the area and had the means I’d go once a year. For me, a safari never gets old. I tell her I hope to return next year. She tells me she’ll look forward to seeing me. 🇿🇲
22 July 2024
