A voyage to the Ross Sea Antarctica, part 10
A zodiac cruise in Terra Nova Bay.
I wake up in the middle of the night, tossing and turning. It’s not me; it’s the ship. We’ve hit large swells in the open sea.
Bottles and glasses are being shifted around the room and I take things from the shelves and put them on the floor, sandwiching them between shoes and clothes to keep them from moving. I burrito myself in my covers, thankful now that Mar keeps them tucked tight. Every night I untuck my side but keep the far side tucked in. It’s this that keeps me in place.
In the morning Mar tells me that she woke up when she heard the crashing of things in the cabin next door. Everything had fallen off her neighbor’s shelves. She had bought a rubber mat in Japan to help prevent this.
At 0630 we’re at 75°31.07' S, 169°13.81' E having passed Franklin Island in the night. It’s an overcast morning. Snow has fallen overnight, a light dusting remains on the railing of my balcony.
By 14:40 we’re heading into Terra Nova Bay, having sailed to 74°42.45' S, 165°19.97' E. Tabular icebergs float off the coast. Sunlight filters through the clouds and reflects off the sea.
A zodiac cruise is proposed for the afternoon and after lunch we pull our layers on and head to the marina. The zodiacs in the water look tiny, dwarfed by our surroundings.
As we wait for our cruise, I photograph our position from the aft deck. The Campbell Glacier spreads towards us. It’s ice and snow and sea as far as the eye can see.
I watch as the previous group return from their zodiac cruises. The crew on the marina ready themselves with hooks to help guide them in through the loose ice that has collected around the transom. They tie up the zodiacs and help passengers out and then back in again, untying the inflatable boats before sending them out once again into the sea.
Soon, it’s our turn. Guiliana calls for us, June checks us out. We’re with Remi and we quickly leave the marina of the ship and head towards the ice.
Our first encounter is with an Adélie penguin on the ice. It sits alone on a floe, flapping its wings, staring off into the distance.
We edge closer to the sea ice, admiring the varied shapes assumed by the ice floating in the sea.
Remi noses the zodiac into the ice and we slowly push our way through between large floes. The ice resists, but Remi insists and we slowly gain our way.
Remi picks up two blocks of ice from the sea and has us examine and hold them. They were formed in various ways, one heavier than the other, one clearer than the other.
Our next encounter is with a Weddel seal lying. It suns itself on a floe and raises its head as we approach to check us out. Finding nothing of interest, it lays its head down and continues to enjoy its lazy afternoon in the sun.
We peel off and head closer to the ice wall that forms a barrier to the land. Remi points out the layers we can see, an ashy line that runs across its face.
We continue navigating the Bay, running alongside the ice, keeping a safe distance. He points the nose away from the ship and we continue cruising the waters, ice around us.
Our final encounter is with a leopard seal. It raises its head as we pass by, but not to look at us. There’s something else that’s caught its attention, but not enough for it to take action. We leave it as we found it, a sausage shape on the ice.
It’s time to head back and Remi urgest us forward with some speed. We’ve gone far afield and need to make it back. I’m so glad we’ve gone as far as we have, for the views of the ice and Mount Melbourne.
We’re welcome by the crew when we arrive, one hooking the zodiac as we drift up to the marina. June checks us in once again. It’s already almost time for dinner.
It’s Waitangi Day, which commemorates the first signing of New Zealand's founding document on 6 February 1840: Te Tiriti o Waitangi, or The Treaty of Waitangi. Cocktails are served in the third deck lounge and we partake before making our way to dinner.
The ship cruises south along the continent during drinks and dinner, giving us glimpses of various research stations positioned along the coast. We start with the South Korean station, then the German station and Zucchelli Station, the Italian station. Finally we reach Qinling Station on Inexpressible Island, the latest Chinese base. It’s the newest station being built and it looks beautiful, as well as like something a Bond villain might inhabit. All of the Chinese passengers collect on deck six to take a group photo with the station (and the sun) in the background.
The island was so named by Scott’s Northern Party on his Terra Nova Expedition, which were tasked with geological work. They were forced to winter there in a cave they dug out of a snow drift when their supply ship Terra Nova was unable to pick them up due to heavy pack ice.
I while away the rest of the evening in the lounge, drinking champagne with Natalie, Patricia, Sam, and Alice. Patricia and Alice educate me on New Zealand recording artists as the Upbeats Duo play covers of past hits. I’ve forgotten Crowded House is from New Zealand. Natalie tells us stories of her work in Alaska and of the bears she’s encountered far too many times.
Later we run into Christine, who is very focused on finding proper suitors for her daughters. She then turns tack and proposes a singles travel club and asks if Natalie and I would like to join. Patricia’s already moved on from that status; the best she can do is be a member emeritus. I’m game. 🇦🇶
— 6 February 2025
