Atacama chapter two
Hot springs and sandy roads.
The next morning I am up at 06:45 in order to take a leisurely breakfast before our 08:00 assembly time. In the morning I plan to hike to the Puritama hot springs and in the afternoon to hike through a “rainbow” canyon in the Domeyko range to the south.
Our group is larger than the day before, comprised of the Brazilians and two Chilean couples. We climb into the van and begin our drive to the trailhead, passing through the town and skirting the edge before leaving it behind.
The van leaves us off at the mouth of a canyon. Our guide tells us that the day will be warm and helps us decide what to wear and what to carry on our hike. We start slow, climbing down into the canyon and walk alongside the dry walls. Another group from the lodge is ahead; we saw their van when we arrived and watched as they disappeared around a bend before we began.
It’s surprising to see so much water in the desert. I had no expectations coming in but had I had any, a river of this size would not have been on it. As we walk a small group of us walk ahead, eventually catching up with a larger Brazilian group from our lodge. Their guide radios ours to let him know where we are.
At times we have to skirt the river by climbing along the rocks the line the bank. At other times, we seem to leave the river behind completely and find ourselves once again in an arid canyon. I chat with the couple I’ve started hiking with. They’re from Santiago; she’s in real estate. She had thought about moving to Italy, where she’s bought some property, but ultimately decided to stay in Santiago for her son, who’s still in school. It’s hard upending their world, she tells me, something I can sympathize with having moved so much as a child.
On reaching the hot spring, we discover a light repast had already been set up for us: churros with chocolate, papaya and pineapple, potatoes with a zesty green sauce. We change and don robes and take refreshments before dipping into the warm clear waters. We’ve arrived well before the rest of our group and are lounging in the sun when they appear.
Back at the lodge I order everything on the lunch menu and two desserts. I ask if I were the only glutton and am assured I am not. My companions seem surprised and I offer to share my spoils with them.
On the drive back I saw a single woman standing in the desert and wondered how she got there. It wasn’t until I was putting my camera away that I caught a car waiting for her on the other side of the road.
In the afternoon, I join a couple from the UK for a trip to the Domeyko mountain range and a hike through a canyon known for its colorful minerals. Emanuel shows us the route on the map; we’ll be driving south for about an hour and a half before turning into the mountains where we’ll pick up the trailhead, descending through the canyon and down three dry waterfalls. Paola, our driver, will meet us on the other side with refreshments.
Briefed, we load ourselves into the van and begin our drive south.
We drive along the highway and then turn onto a gravel road that’s under repair. At one point, we drive off the road to let oncoming cars pass. I’m surprised the van is as adept as it is. And then, as we turn off of this road onto an even smaller road that runs towards the mountains we get stuck in the sand.
We alight and try pushing the vehicle but the tires spin deeper into the sand. Emanuel calls it in. I climb a nearby hill to get a better view of the surroundings.
Back at the car Emanuel tells us they’re sending another vehicle to dig us out. He apologizes profusely, but we all take it in stride. I’m just happy to be there. Everything else is a bonus.
He leads us back up the way I came and we climb a higher hill for sweeping views of the area. The wind picks up but the desire to continue gazing at the view outweighs our desire to descend.
As we look out over the landscape, I spot a car approaching and point it out to Emanuel. He’s not sure it’s our rescue vehicle until we see it turn onto the dirt path on which our van is stuck. We watch it approach and then descend to find our savior attaching his car to ours. We get in front of the van and push while he pulls and slowly we drag the van back onto solid ground. Refreshments are passed around and we congratulate each other on a job well done. Unfortunately, it’s late and the canyons will have to wait for another day. At dinner, I order two appetizers and an entree. And two desserts. Just to try.
1 September 2023
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