Galapagos: Part V
Iguana island.
Feb 19, 2022
In the morning I watched the rising sun fade Venus into the sky. From an upper deck I spotted Taylor taking her first cup of coffee on the main deck. She had her camera with her and we shot photos of each other taking photos of each other. We had settled into the rhythm of the boat and we were rested and ready for breakfast and for our first excursion onto Fernandina Island.
We disembarked from our pangas on Isabela island and instantly came across a large group of marine iguana. Monica had told us she had renamed the island Iguanaisland, and we immediately saw why.
She lead us on a hike away from the beach and across the lava fields. She pointed out various flora growing out of the rock, including a few beautiful clumps of cactus. In the distance we could see steam rising from the Wolf volcano.
Along the rocks Monica pointed out a lava lizard, which prompted me to take on a lava lounge lizard persona, trying bits out on Taylor:
Hello everyone and welcome to the Galapagos lounge. Thanks for coming out tonight. Who’s here tonight? There’s some sea lions here in the first row. You know what I do when I see lions? I run.
A little safari humor for you. Safari so good am I right?
Are there any dolphins in the house? No? I guess I’m standing up here without a porpoise.
You guys are great. How about a song? Under the sea . . . under the seaaaaa
In spite of herself, she laughed.
We came across a small pool surrounded by foliage and looked into the green waters. Sea turtles calmly swam around the lagoon, their mottled shells undulating in the shadows cast by the leaves and the ripples on the water.
Back along the beach female iguana were digging and fighting over nesting areas. Iguana covered the rocks, sunning themselves. There were iguana as far as the eye could see and we had to walk carefully not to step on them.
At one point we stood and watched as two iguana fought over the same nest, head-butting each other and working to push the other out. A third iguana stood off to the side and we wondered if it was waiting for the other two to tire themselves out, calculating the exact moment to enter the fray.
As we approached the pick up point, we saw two birds dancing around each other. We sat to watch their interactions. A sea lion emerged from the water and watched them as well before lumbering onto the rock to take it over.
Snorkeling.
On the boat we donned wetsuits and boarded pangas headed back towards the island. Now that we had seen marine iguana on land, we were hoping to see them in the water. Almost as soon as we entered the water, we came upon a group of sea turtles. We watched them as they fed on algae off the rocks and swam along with them as they looked for better feeding spots.
As we followed one turtle we swam across an iguana feeding off the rocks. It was almost surreal seeing them both in the water in such close proximity, feeding and ignoring each other. An iguana rose in front of me and I followed it, watching it as it used its tail to propel itself towards the shore. I swam slowly and soon it outpaced me. I watched as its prehistoric form disappeared into the blue.
As we continued a small pod of sea lions approached us. They circled us, swimming closely before peeling away, as if to invite us to swim along with them. At times they would swim right at our faces, turning quickly at the last minute to fade into the distance before turning around to come directly at us again.
At one point three I counted three around us. I could hear Taylor laughing with joy and excitement through her snorkel as they took one last turn around us. Then, their curiosity satiated, swam swiftly away, their grey forms disappearing into the sea.
Navigation
Back on board we lunched as the captain navigated us back to Isabella island and Urbina Bay. There, we would make a wet landing on the beach and then hike the island in search of land iguana and giant tortoises. Our guides were careful not to promise anything, but said that if we were to see them this would be the place.
Urbina Bay
Landing on the beach, Robert cautioned us to stay close to the water line. There were protected nests higher up the beach and we could see the indentations where turtles had dug their nests.
Walking along the path we came across a few giant tortoise laying in a small muddy crater. As we walked further Roberto showed us the different paths that they took, sometimes on large paths, sometimes making their way through the brush in what appeared to be tunnels through the underbrush.
As we walked we also saw large land iguana lounging by the side of the path. One watched as we passed before decided to take its leave of us, and we made way as it lumbered between us. At a small clearing, one lay unperturbed as our group took turns taking photos alongside it.
As we wound our way back towards the beach, Roberto spotted some tortoise off the main path. He asked if we wanted to try and get closer, warning us we might have to crawl. Taylor and I were both up for it, but as Roberto approached the path, we found it overrun with spiked plants. He decided it wasn’t worth it.
Evening briefing
Back on board, we weighed anchor to head to Elizabeth Bay. Roberto’s evening briefing consisted of reviewing the sea life we had seen thus far on our trip. He walked us through a slideshow of different sea animals we had seen, naming them and sharing facts about them; some of the photos he had taken while snorkeling earlier in the day.
After dinner I walked to the bow of the ship to look at the waning moon. It cast its light over a small island just ahead of us, silhouetting it against the horizon. I walked aft to find Roberto and Carlos chatting at the stern. I told them about the moon and way it was reflected in the sea before turning in. 🐠
