Galapagos: Part IV
In which we climb a volcano for the views.
Feb 18, 2022:
6:45 wake up call.
When we saw the call sheet we celebrated the later wake-up call, but I was still up before the dawn. When I came up on deck, Roberto was seated at the stern. He pointed a rock on the far shore and handed me his binoculars. “Penguins,” he said. “And flightless cormorants.”
“See where one color of rock sits against the other?” he said. “Follow that line down to the rock sticking out of the water.” I trained the binoculars to lines he described and soon saw a small group of penguins standing on top of the rock. The cormorants were on the shore, huddled around what we’d later discover was a nest with a fledgling protected within.
A panga ride.
After breakfast, our first excursion was a panga ride along the cliffs and shore of the bay in which we were anchored. Roberto boarded with a mug of coffee. He handed it to a crew member and helped the passengers board before retrieving it. We could see him sipping from it as we set off from the Grace.
We drifted along the rocky shore, close to the Grace, spotting sea lions and blue-footed boobies. Monica pointed out the various species of animals and gave us information about them and their surroundings.
As we made our way, we approached the area where penguins had been standing. A pair remained and the Nacho let the panga drift as close as we could to observe them. They watched us approach and then one by one slowly made their way down the slope of the rock into the water.
Just beyond, on the shore, Monica saw a cormorant chick poking its head up out of its nest. She handed binoculars around so we could get a closer look. Its mother stood a close watch.
As we continued exploring the coast, a large cavern appeared to our right. Nacho nudged the panga forward and into the cave until we reached the far side. Monica asked him to cut the engine so we could sit inside and listen to the waves lap against its walls; the panga rocked in time to the rhythm.
As we emerged, sea lions appeared. They slipped in and out of view, surfacing to check us out before diving back into the water. We drifted alongside them until they had had their fill of us, disappearing into the water, headed into the cave.
As we rounded a curve in the bay, Monica pointed towards the rock and the dozens of iguana that were sunning themselves. It was a beautiful display of sea and sea life; while the day was overcast, the rocks seemed to glow golden as if from within.
The iguana appeared just as the rocks shifted from black to gold, and at first their bodies seemed to be extensions of the rock itself. I had to look closely at first to make them out.
Monica asked Nacho take us out into the open water so we could get a better view of the island and the volcanic craters. We bobbed for a bit in the open sea as she described the geology before being called back to the boat. We had a schedule to keep, and snorkeling was on the docket.
Up close and personal with sea turtles.
The water was cold and murky. On submerging myself I caught myself taking a breath from the shock. The guides had explained that it was due to algae and plankton in the water and that it was good to see that the seas were producing food to sustain the ecosystem.
As we swam, shapes emerged from the water and suddenly sea turtles appeared everywhere we turned. At times, I’d find myself on top of one and would swim away to avoid it surfacing into me. Other times, I’d float beside one, letting the currents sway us both to and fro beneath the waves.
Monica called out and motioned towards us. They had found a column of manta ray and we swam over them, watching as they floated in circular patterns below us. We watched until they chose a direction and faded away into the sea.
The group had moved on and Taylor and I were left behind. We looked up to catch our bearings and then put our heads down to swim towards the group. Suddenly there was splashing around us and as I turned my head I saw a flightless cormorant right beside us. We had almost swum right into it.
Tagus Cove.
After lunch we set sail for Tagus Cove. On anchoring, the crew dropped pangas and kayaks into the water and we kayaked around the cove before returning to the ship. Along the way we saw nesting birds amongst the rocky shore. As we kayaked, Taylor would look back and comment on how far ahead we were; at one point Roberto chased us in the panga to direct us back towards the ship.
Since we had the time, I asked Taylor if she wanted to do a lap around the boat. She did not.
We changed for our next activity, a hike up the volcano to see Darwin’s lake. I grabbed our swimsuits to hang them on the sun deck to dry. The captain was on the main deck and asked if I wanted to go for a swim, and when the captain invites you for a swim you don’t say no. I quickly changed back into my wet trunks and dove into the water. Roberto and Leo joined us for the quick dip before rebounding the boat.
Hiking the volcano.
Monica chose to do our hike barefoot. We had been advised to wear closed-toed shoes, and Roberto had warned us not to do as Monica did. He said Monica would often choose to go barefoot where others should be shod.
The hike began with a climb up a set of wooden stairs before we reached the dirt path. We paused at a ridge overlooking Darwin’s Lake, a body of water that had filled the caldera. Scientists believe that a tsunami might have lead to the caldera being filled; you could see how the water level was higher than that of the sea.
Circumambulating the rim, we paused at another view point and we each took photos with the lake and our ship in the background. When deciding how to represent ourselves, Taylor suggested we do a sorority pose. And sorority pose we did.
Atop a volcanic ridge.
The trail ended at a viewpoint overlooking two sides of the island. We could look back from whence we came and then out over a broad lava flow that reached the sea. Monica pointed to a small swath of green land on the coast and proceeded to tell us about the Mangrove finches, now endangered due to black rats and the Philornis downsi fly, whch feed on the blood of nestlings.
Ges remarked that it was surprising the birds hadn’t evolved to eat the fly larvae; it seemed like a miss in the chain of evolution.
Thou shall not pass!
Sea lions blocked our way back to the landing. Monica asked them politely to move aside; when they refused she had us step lightly around them. When we hesitated, one became impatient and started barking at us. He had decided he wanted to climb up the rocky path himself. Monica took off her backpack and used it to encourage his progress, driving him to the opposite side of our group as he lumbered up the path.
Penguins on board.
On the panga ride back to the the ship the setting sun cast its rays across the clouds that raked the sky. We were a little late off the island, so much had we enjoyed the views and the hike, but were excited to be treated to nature’s display.
Back in the cabin, Alex had fashioned our towels into penguins. Each day a new creature welcomed us back from our afternoon excursion and we began to look forward to each new creation.
The first day Alex had left hammerhead sharks. I was late returning to the room; Taylor had looked for me to show them to me, but ultimately had to use the towels before I had a chance to see them. She took a picture to show me later.
Looking for the moon.
At our briefing, Monica explained how a hot spot under the sea was responsible for forming the islands, and how the movement of the Nazca plate is drawing them ever so slowly towards the mainland.
After dinner, we retired to our rooms. I asked Taylor if she wanted me to refill her water bottle before collecting them and stepping back on deck.
Carmen and Carlos were seated on the stern looking out at the night sky. The clouds were slowly dissipating and I joined them to gaze out over the islands. As we looked out a bright, slow shooting star fell off the starboard side. Minutes later, another fell off the port side.
I was about to turn in when the moon shone through the clouds. “La luna!” Carmen exclaimed. The moon was full and cast rings in the sky. I lingered a bit longer to admire the view before deciding to turn in to leave them to moon and stars. 🌕
