Patagonia II: Part IV
Lago Grey and a rest day.
It’s raining when I wake up.
From the skylight window of my room I stare out over the valley at the clouds. Raindrops blur my view. Our kayaking plans have been canceled and we have the morning to ourselves. We’ve planned a short hike along Lago Grey to see the lake and the glacier, but not until after lunch. Hopefully, after the rains have stopped.
We take our time at breakfast. It actually feels great to slow down and rest, especially after the hike we had done the day before. The hotel is beautiful as is the view, and we’re happy to have some time to enjoy our environs.
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After breakfast my niece and I head to the spa. A facial for her and a massage for me. I opt for the deep tissue and ask the masseuse to be firm. She is. And as painful as the massage is, I am extremely relaxed afterwards. I almost fall asleep at lunch.
We take lunch in the bar. The main dining room felt too much and my niece suggests we go downstairs. The menu is simpler, and there are churros for dessert.
We grab a table by the window. The rain has stopped and the skies blue.
After lunch we change into our hiking gear and pack small bags. We won’t be hiking more than an hour or two, and don’t need to carry more than water. It’s a rest day.
The drive to the lake takes us on a new route through the park. After following the same road the past two days, we take a left shortly after entering the park and drive west along a road offering us new views of the mountains that dominate the park.
At the parking lot we change into our boots and don our fleeces and jackets. The weather is split. Overhead it is overcast; on the other side of the valley we see clearing skies.
From the start of the path we can see the lake and the wide expanse of shore we have to cross to get to the mirador. Groups of people form a line on the rocky ground pointing the way.
The wind presses against us when we reach the exposed beach and our jackets flap against us. A rainbow reaches across the landscape to the south; we can just make out each end as it stretches across the valley.
I point out a bright blue object in the water to my cousin. It’s the first iceberg she’s seen in real life. She’s surprised by the color and the intensity.
At the other end of the beach a boat waits to collect a number of passengers. It’s paused here to let people alight and take photos before taking them closer to the glacier on the far side of the lake.
We find the entrance to the mirador hike and make our way around the small outcropping of rock. It’s an easy hike, made difficult by our tired and aching legs (my cousin), feet (my niece), and knees (me).
At the mirador we get our best views of the glacier. Rodrigo has told us that it’s been receding. The hike to the glacier itself (part of the W) has gotten longer and longer as it shrinks. Another concern to add to the overall climate crisis facing the world.
Driving back to the hotel, we’re granted beautiful views of the pampas. The skies have become mostly overcast again, but once in a while an opening lets the sun shine through.
Nearing the hotel, we stop at a viewpoint overlooking the valley. From our vantage point we have expansive views of the river and the town below. The massif forms a dramatic backdrop to the scene.
Back at the hotel my cousin heads to her massage. I sit with my niece in a lounge. I ask the staff to light the fire.
Astrid has encouraged us walk to the river for the view. My niece is happy reading her book and so I head out by myself. She tells me that I have to climb a fence and it will feel like I’m trespassing; she assures me I’m not.
Near the river two horses are drinking by a small pond. They seem uninterested in my approach and continue to drink and eat from the pool. I listen to the sound of grass being pulled from the earth, the slosh of water as they search for a tastier patch. I am entranced and find myself transfixed; I stand and watch them eat, my eye occasionally gazing out towards the mountains beyond.
People are fishing by the river. I stand on a dock and watch the water flow. Looking down I can clearly see the rocky riverbed. The water is cold and I watch it swirl as it passes.
I walk back to the hotel to join my niece. An asado is being prepared and I stop for a moment to gather heat from its fire.
Almost as soon as I’m settled back in the lounge the clouds clear from the mountain peaks and the light shifts. I am tired and achy and don’t want to move but I can’t pass up the moment. I pray that the clouds don’t return in the time it takes me to walk back to the river.
It’s worth it. The light is amazing, the peaks are exposed, the clouds are dramatic. I stand on the dock and gaze out at the landscape. I watch the clouds shift the light reflecting off of the land until they once again obscure the mountain tops. All I can hear is the sound of the river as it passes over the rocks, eddies against the dock. It’s been some time since I’ve been anywhere as beautiful and as quiet and as peaceful as this.
17 March 2023
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