Zanzibar, Chapter one
Zanzibar, from sunrise to sunset.
Matemwe.
I had booked a car to take me from the airport to the beach resort town of Matemwe, on the other side of the island. It was an hour’s drive and I asked to sit in front so I could watch the road ahead. The driver agreed.
I nodded off and on the flight to Zanzibar, afraid I’d hit the stick or do something more serious. At the airport I filled out a Zanzibar card and was ushered through security. After picking up my bags I asked at the taxi stand how much it was to Matemwe. “Normally it’s 60$” I was told. How much today I asked? 50$ he said. Lowest price. I agreed.
On the ride through town I fell in love with Zanzibar and again with travel. The shops and crowds and the gala gala buses and everything reminded me so much of previous trips and filled me with love for this one.
At the hotel I checked in and went to test my snorkeling gear. It seems to work fine. In the water I was shocked at the number of sea urchins and was happy to have had a warning in the guest book.
For dinner I wandered the beautiful beach, taking off my flip flops to feel the fine grained sand beneath my feet. I ate dinner at Bin Java’s, a local place, walking back along a moonlight night.
At the hotel I was informed I have half board which meant a free dinner. Oh well. I had a fruit salad and a bottle of water instead.
The next morning.
I had booked a morning snorkeling tour, thought we weren’t to meet until well after the sun was up. The night before I had noticed a chalkboard that listed sunrises and sunsets. I thought about waking up to see the sunrise, but decided to sleep in.
My body had other plans, however, and I was up well before the dawn, though the sky was already brightening. Checking the time, I decided to step out of my room to take a look at the sea. The hotel faced east and I was stuck by the watercolor-like pastel colors that washed across the scene before me.
At the dive center we were given wetsuits and flippers and then piled into a van to take us to the departure point. From there we boarded a boat and navigated towards a private island. We were not allowed to be on the island, but close to it, and we jumped in and snorkeled two areas before being driven back to the beach in front of the dive center.
I walked back to the hotel from the center, showered, and changed. I had a car coming to take me to a COVID testing center and then back to Stone Town.
The testing center was a few minutes away in a nondescript part of town. We drove over broken streets and down alleyways to get there. Outside there was a small tent set up for people to wait. Inside, my test was administered in a concrete room. The nurse sat behind a grey metal desk and came around to take a sample after I had answered all of her questions.
Stone town.
The drive to stone town was the reverse of the day before. I was let off near my hotel, which lay down a narrow alleyway inaccessible to automobiles.
I was staying at the Emerson Hurumzi, a hotel that was once home of one of the richest men in the Swahili Empire, a Mr. Tharia Topan. I had splurged a little for my room, but it was worth it, for the atmosphere and for its central location in the town.
After checking in I immediately set off to explore.
I loved the narrow streets and the winding lanes and I did my best to lose myself. The town is not large, however, and I often found myself back in places I knew and recognized. I shopped in a few stores, and peeked at Freddie Mercury’s old house, but decided not to go in.
• • •
As the day started to draw to a close I found myself drawn to the beach. I didn’t realize it at first but then it dawned on me that I was watching the same sun I had seen rise over the ocean on one coast of the island set over the ocean on the other. I reveled in the fact and found a spot to sit and enjoy the spectacle.
As night fell, I once again explored the city by the shore. A different type of energy had taken over and I was happy to watch as children played in an amphitheater and as stores turned on their lights to welcome what shoppers might be out for a stroll.
The main square by the water had been converted into a food hall, with various chefs standing behind tables laden with food. You could point at the seafood or meat you’d be interested in and they’d make it right in front of you. It was like a mini version of the Djemma el-Fina.
I found a stall and chose some octopus skewers, which were served with chapati. Once served, I found a spot by the fountain where I could stand and rest my plate on a stone railing. The food was delicious. Spicy, hot, and full of flavor. I couldn’t have asked for more. 🇹🇿
